After talking about it for years, we finally decided to do it. Me, Charlie, Dave and Ron plunked my old pontoon boat into the Ohio River a little west of Evansville, Indiana, and aimed for New Orleans. It was a great adventure, but we didn’t make it all the way there. Engine problems, lack of ports, facilities and fatigue stopped us at Memphis.
We docked at a marina, paid a deposit and promised to be back in a week with a trailer to haul the old log-dodger back to Indianapolis.
We got four rooms at the Peabody Hotel and each of us spent most of the afternoon in the shower. The next day, we were on a plane headed for home. Of all the memories we shared, none was as exciting and pleasurable as the evening we spent in Cairo, Illinois, with Duke Washam at Smith&Groves Tavern and Restaurant.
Ron went to Ireland, Dave played golf and Charlie and I scheduled Thursday, July 16 as the day to drive toward Memphis and pick up the Log Jammer. Of course we did not intend to make it all the way there in one day. We pointed the Ford 150 toward Cairo, Illinois, and Smith&Groves. We aimed past the Relax Inn and hit the Days Inn off Interstate 57. As soon as the motel phone in room 111 was activated, Charlie called Duke and asked him if he had ribs that night. Lucky for us, he did.
I was mildly apprehensive. The memories of our evening with Duke, Steve and the rest of the gang at Smith&Groves, the stories we heard, the stories we told, the food we ate, the friends we made, and the beer we drank might – just might – have been a one-time-only experience, that rare mix of good people and unique circumstances that cannot be duplicated.
It wasn’t the same. It was a blast.
Our first surprise was seeing Helen behind the bar. Helen, fair Helen, had not been at Smith&Groves during our first visit since it was her day off. Trim and tanned with sparkling eyes and a quick wit, she was the perfect antidote for the overpowering maleness of the place. There was no coquettishness, no phony femininity, just a real woman, tolerant and unfazed by four-beer language and the often sophomoric antics of her clientele.
A fresh breeze in a dark bar.
We were greeted as regulars and grabbed stools. Duke served 20-ounce goblets of draft beer for $1.50, and before the evening was over I had spent $4.50 on beer and I-don’t-know-how-much on a full rack of barbequed pork ribs, French fries and coleslaw. In the middle of the night, my stomach complained that my mouth was trying to destroy it. Not that the food wasn’t somewhere up near fantastic; it was just that my digestive system had not yet developed the required calluses to accommodate such a greasy feast.
Sometime, a little before nine o’clock, Charlie and I decided that given the impending immensity of the following day’s trip to Memphis to retrieve the boat, plus the hassle of getting the boat on the trailer, the time it took to off-load the contents to the truck and the long drive back North, we were justified in returning to Cairo the next day, instead of hard-driving all the way home. When we told Duke of our plans, he said, “When you get here, I’ll take you out to Ouida’s…about all they serve out there are hamburgers and pork chop sandwiches, but I think you’ll like it.”
We happily agreed, returned to the Days Inn and ruffled through our luggage to see if we could find Tums or Rolaids to prepare for what was ahead.
We were greeted at the Memphis Yacht Club the following morning with the news that the key/ignition switch had broken on the Log Jammer when one of the Club employees attempted to move the boat. We solved the how-to-get-it-on-the-trailer problem by having them tow it to the ramp and cranking it up manually. It was easier than it sounds. We then went on our way to Cairo.
We hadn’t checked out of the Days Inn the day before, so we returned, showered and napped to prepare ourselves, especially our stomachs, for the evening ahead.
True to his word, after a re-greeting and a beer we piled into our respective pickup trucks and headed toward Ouida’s on Horseshoe Lake. (We had wisely disconnected the trailer at the motel.) Horseshoe Lake at sunset is a beautiful place—calm, shallow water bordered by majestic cypress trees, a tree I often see in Georgia and Florida, but never expect to find in Illinois. Ouida’s was smaller than Smith&Groves and noisier. We edged to the bar where cans of each of our favorite brands were put in front of us – and we hadn’t yet ordered. A man who appeared to have been at Ouida’s bar for days walked unsteadily to Charlie as the jukebox roared with some rock-dance music. Charlie went along with it for a while, then, stopped abruptly. “Why?” I asked. “He insisted upon leading,” Charlie retorted.
The food came, again unordered. Duke had asked us what we planned to eat before we left and put in the order by phone. Each time we turned our heads, another beer appeared. Our brains were fogged-in, but we knew Duke was paying for everything. I tried to get Duke to accept a $50 bill, but he refused. I attempted to stuff it in his pocket, and he took it out and put it in mine. I knew then he wasn’t joking. The party was on him. And it wasn’t just Duke, me and Charlie – he was picking up the bill for all of his regular customers who followed us out to his biggest competitor. I was totally, absolutely, flabbergasted.
Before we reached designated driver time, we left the charming Ouida and drove back to Smith&Groves.
Recalling odd bits of overheard conversation, remembering the quips and antics I laughed at and enjoyed hearing, is outside the boundaries of my ability. As best I can remember, however, here are a few of the most memorable quotes:
On marital relations…
…if the bitch ever leaves me again, by damn, I’m going with her…
On drinking…
…they accused me of being an alcoholic. I ain’t an alcoholic. I’m a drunk.
Alcoholics have to go to meetings. I don’t go to meetings.
On politics…
…it ain’t that complicated. Democrats do it for sex, Republicans do it
for money…
On fishing line…
…skinny stuff, as fine as frog hair…
On golf by a fisherman…
…but you can’t eat those little white round things. I even tried it once with corn meal and it tasted like s–t…
To a messy, somewhat drunk eater…
…make up your mind. You want to eat it or you want to wear it…
On policemen…
Charlie: “Did you ever notice that the smaller the town, the larger the police car?”
On the girl at Ouida’s who worked in a gym…
Charlie: “I was just feeling her muscles.”